Jan-Feb 2OO7

Cultured Pearl
A powerful foodie pair brings its worldly, Asian-themed hit to Hollywood

By Victoria Namkung

Royal restaurant duo Tim and Liza Goodell have already taken Hollywood by storm wish sizzling steaks as Dakota and haute burgers at 25 degrees. So it seems appropriate that the husband-and-wile team also be opening an L.A version of their Asian-themed Red Pearl Kiichen (already a hit in San Diego and Huntington Beach)

The scene within she blood-red building is instantly seductive. With a sparkling gold floor reminiscent of Oz’s yellow brick road—if it were located in a disco. On a recent visit, the clubby lounge was offering such humorously named drinks as the Drunken Samurai and the lipsy Geisha, while a giant Buddha welcomed us to dine amid mini Chairman Mao lamps and chandeliers made from kimonos,

Dim-sum-sized offerings include duck fois gras shu mai, strawberry cinnamon ribs, crispy heel wontons and duck-banana lettuce wraps with a dab of sambal oolek chLli paste Among the must- try desserts (or happy endings, as they are called here): a Vietnamese coffee sundae and a cardamon pot de creme with banana fritters. •